Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Painting•Bhanpura

World’s Longest Rock Shelter Art Gallery 

Rock Art is an expression of human existence
It marks humanity’s cultural beginning
Thousands of paintings reflect their way of life
Of Hunting or War, Of Celebrations and Processions
Of Animals and their habitat in that era
Venturing into this hidden and unknown world
Undaunted, a few School Teachers dared into the dense forests
And unearthed one of the greatest surviving art treasures of India
Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter

On a particularly warm May evening at Hinglaj Resort, Gandhi Sagar, I was waiting impatiently to get my room keys. I could see some guests ahead of me, and overheard the conversation between Mr.Ravi Sahgal at the Front Office and the guests.
“You can visit Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Painting tomorrow morning, it’s unique” he suggested. The kids were keen to explore, however, the idea did not appeal to most of the older ones and was turned down. “Let’s go to the Boating Club instead” one of them concluded and the rest followed him.

I was more than happy that their conversation had ended and the guests had moved away. I was now impatient to know about the Rock Shelter location and asked, “How far is this place ?” Mr. Ravi effortlessly added,” Not far, it is 3 km away from this resort and in the forest, certainly worth a visit.“

I have read about Rock Shelter sites and India is blessed to have one of the largest concentrations of this World Heritage.  Rock Art is an important record that captures expression of human existence and the dawn of human civilization over thousands of years. Getting to experience the rarest of rare was like a special tiding being bestowed on me. I was however, not sure, if I could make it to the forest on my own.

Next morning, with a brave face, I walked up to the Front Office and met Mr. Rajesh Maida, Resort Manager.
I softly asked him if I could venture to the location on my own and he said, “Why not ? You will find ASI Staff there who will take you around and show you the Rock paintings.”
By then, perhaps, he had sensed my unseen worry. I requested if he could come along as it was almost 10 am and we would be back soonest.
Thankfully, he agreed. 

Shree Chaturbhuj Nath, Lord with Four arms is Sheshashayi Vishnu (reclining form of Lord Vishnu) lying on the couch of Ananta Shesha serpent – this beautiful Idol in blackstone is worshipped here.

The temple is believed to be over 1000 years old and the original idol was stolen many years back. The villagers restored the sanctum with another idol.
This place was therefore named CHATURBHUJ. 
The moment was Divine and the feeling was special to be at this temple in midst of a dense forest. 

We got back to the car and drove ahead.
After about 500 metres away, we reached our destination –

CHATURBHUJ NALA ROCK SHELTER

Rajesh ji introduced me to Satyendra Kumar Chaurasia from Archaeological Survey of India, ASI.
As the Rock Shelter was not visible to me, he stretched his arm pointing towards a downward rock slope, “This is the only way, Madam, to reach the exact location of the Rock Shelter,” he said with ungrudging kindness.
I was quite apprehensive whether I could step down 25 ft and more through this difficult stretch of rock laid uneven path.
Rajesh ji eased the situation and assured me that we could step down the rock laden slope slowly. Going back was anyway not an option I was seeking, being so close to a hidden treasure.
Following the steps, one by one, this time led by Satyendra ji, we reached the World’s Longest Rock Art Gallery.
The first sight of this spectacular stretch, left me spellbound.

Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter presents over 2000 paintings continuously spread across 5 km, with the First 1 km being the richest.
Studies have identified this rock painting dating back 5000 to 20000 years old.
This Rock Shelter Art is believed to represent – from middle Palaeolithic period to Neolithic or New Stone Age to the Chalcolithic or Copper Age.

THE GALLERY

The paintings here during pre historic period depict mainly wild animals and hunting. Thereafter, the evolution of human civilization is seen through paintings of animal grazing, agriculture, tribals setting traps to catch animals, social scenes are vividly seen like women dancing together, motifs and designs, celebrations and victory processions. There are battle scenes with animals and tools like axes and daggers, spears and harpoons, bows and tipped arrows.

THE MIGHTY ANIMALS

What prominently stands out in the Rock Shelter are multiple paintings of mighty animals like nine horned bisons, wild bulls, one horned rhinoceros, elephants, tigers, flying lizards and kangaroo like animals, crocodiles, deer and antelopes, serpents and huge spider webs.
This depiction of mighty animals painted throughout the Rock Shelter establishes that rare Mega fauna thrived in these jungles.
Interestingly, today, the One horned Rhinoceros is only found in the jungles of Assam-far, far away from Bhanpura.

One of the longest paintings at the Rock Shelter is a Procession with a chain of human figures and animals.

The sight of red ochre paintings in different shades etched thousands of years ago was mesmerising. As we admired this bejewelled glory, Satyendra ji added that the colours are lighter due to extreme sunlight and dust, however,with rains, they will bear deep colours once again.

CHATURBHUJ NALA

Chaturbhuj Nala that flows through this stretch is now a small water body and is waiting for the rains to arrive.
The origin of this water source is believed to be from the hilly slopes alongside some old villages named – Prempuria and Dhamnia, 2 km away from the South of Shree Chaturbhuj Nath Temple. Thus, the name, Chaturbhuj Nala.
From here, Chaturbhuj Nala flows ahead for another 12 km and culminates into Maharana Pratap Water Reservoir in Rajasthan. 

FOR ARJUNA’S SAKE

ARJUNA TREES at the Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter

Under the shade of the ARJUNA trees, the Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter unveils a serene and beautiful view.
The gentle swishing of the leaves creates a calming effect, and I find myself lost in the timelessness of the moment.
These trees, some centuries old, embody the Perpetual cycle of life – decaying and perishing, only to give rise to new life.
Arjuna trees are not just silent witness to history; their Bark, known as ARJUNARISHTA is a natural remedy for heart health, treating ailments like high blood pressure and various other conditions.
Aware of the Arjuna’s healing properties, I gently stroked the trunk of the trees in gratitude, appreciating its silent gift to humanity.

Walking back and climbing the rock laden steps was quicker.
It was around 1.30 pm and we had taken much longer. Satyendra ji also acknowledged that he did not anticipate that we would walk the distance and hear his tales around the paintings.
Two other fellow workers who were quietly sweeping away the broken branches stuck in the rock crevices were now waiting for him to join them for the tiffin break.

The enormity of the Rock Shelter paintings had left me baffled and I had so many questions.
The foremost being – Why is Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Art Gallery still awaiting what it completely deserves – Recognition and Respect.

Satyendra ji mentioned about Dr. Pradyumn Bhatt’s selfless contribution and involvement with Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter.
Taking initiative and making it happen under these tough conditions is unbelievable, and to witness it is an humbling experience.
Dr.Bhatt, his students and ASI team have built the rock laden steps for the ease of tourists to descend and visit the gallery.
Access to the Rock Shelter would have been otherwise very difficult without this structure. This rocky path is now a blessing for all visitors.
Another thoughtful step has been the stone structured washrooms for Men and Women, also raised by the same team.

We thanked Satyendra ji for fearlessly carrying out his duty amidst the odds with tremendous zeal and spirit.
“This is my home for 20 years now,” says Satyendra ji.
Without any doubt, Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter is his lifeline, and his bonding with the paintings is deep and familylike.
You will find him here, every season.

At the exit gate, completely swarmed with emotions, I exclaimed that we must certainly have a ‘Distinct’ Signboard of Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Painting Site, so that more tourists get to know and come here.
After all, this is one of India’s Greatest Surviving Art Treasures!
Rajesh ji, smiled.

FOR THE LOVE OF ROCK SHELTER ART

Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter site was first discovered in 1977 by three self driven School Teachers, Ramesh Kumar Pancholi, Satish Bhatnagar and Abid Chaudhury, who put together stories of a different era and time.
Then, there are others like Dr.Giriraj Kumar, Dr.Ravindra Bharadwaj, Dr.Pradyumn Bhatt and many more, who have dedicated their lives studying these paintings created across centuries with fair interpretations of human civilization and how it progressed with time.

It has been my privilege to have interacted with Dr. Pradyumn Bhatt who recalls that as a young boy, he was always fascinated with this flora and fauna laid rich forest and spent hours here understanding the topography of this terrain.

Dr.Bhatt infers that the painted rock shelters could have been learning sites or open schools for early men, women and children to understand their predecessors’ way of living.
His relentless pursuit to conserve this rich heritage, pushed him to meet several Senior Officials at Mandsaur and at the Centre to draw their attention towards Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter and bring it under Archaeological Survey of India, ASI.

Finally in 2004, ASI Officials visited the site and noted the findings which led to the Site being declared as a Protected Monument of National Importance and thereafter was managed by ASI.

After his visit in December,2004, Robert G. Bednarik had stated a few action points to protect this invaluable heritage.
“This site should be declared as a forest reserve and managed by officials who have the knowhow of conserving these paintings. One must protect these paintings from being touched or scribbled by tourists or lighting any fire nearby, and prevent damage from thorny bushes.
Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Shelter is India’s priceless asset, Please protect it”, Bednarik had said.

Bednarik’s words had a lasting impression on Dr.Bhatt. Realising the vulnerability of this site and the potential threat to the paintings from nature and humans, he set himself on a mission.
Over the last 20 years, Dr.Bhatt has been hosting Awareness programmes on the significance of these Rock Shelter paintings amongst locals, visitors as well as students in adjoining schools and colleges of the inter connected States – Mandsaur and Neemuch in Madhya Pradesh and Kota in Rajasthan.
“It is a continuous process of building awareness for this magnificent heritage in Bhanpura with new batches of students coming to schools and colleges, every year. It is about inspiring the younger generation about the unforeseen damage that is being caused due to tourist camp fires and smoke or simply scratching and overwriting on the paintings”, says an untiring Dr.Bhatt.

His dream is to see a Rock Science Centre at Bhanpura where students, researchers and archaeologists from all over India and the World can visit, stay and study this pre historic archaeological site.
Driven by his Love for Rock Shelter Art, Dr. Bhatt believes that he has a role to play and does that with all humility.
Beneficence is his way of life. His treasure trove of knowledge still remains to be fully known.
I have been able gain to several insights during my conversation with him. He has many stories to share and a day is just not enough.
Discover this precious Gem when you visit Bhanpura.

Dr. Pradyumn Bhatt
Director
RMS College of Education
Bhanpura
Email : aprabhatt@gmail.com

BELIEVE IT OR NOT

Amongst the remarkable expeditions that Late Ramesh Kumar Pancholi had undertaken, in 1988, he had unearthed fossilised Ostrich eggshells, in a place called Ramnagar, 5 kms from Bhanpura.
Through Radio carbon methods, the dating revealed that it was close to 38,000 years old.
This reflects that there were suitable habitats in India which led to the arrival of ostrich into India during the Late Pleistocene period.

Bhanpura in Mandsaur district of Madhya Pradesh is gifted with rare wealth of pre historic evidences, some have been found, while, most lay uncovered, unknown to the world.

Chaturbhuj Nala Rock Painting Site Location
This Rock Shelter is located 30 km away from Bhanpura, near Gandhi Sagar Wildlife Sanctuary.

How to reach : 
Accessible by road only.
Nearby Railway Stations: Kota Station (110km), Mandsaur Station (130km)
Nearby Airports: Udaipur Airport (230km), Indore Airport (280km)
Best Time to Visit :
October to February
Closed during rains : During the rains, the Rock Shelters are inaccessible due to the water flow of Chaturbhuj Nala.
Timings: 7 am to 11 am, 3 pm to 6 pm
Winter Months: Dec and Jan : Full day