Srinagar, Spirit Unlimited

Who knows what Heaven is like, this place feels like one.
This is Srinagar, the Summer capital of the Indian Union territory of Jammu and Kashmir.

Never been here as a Tourist and perhaps, this has helped me to experience Srinagar in a very different way.
I have made short visits to this city to meet Government officials and what stands out is the warmth and genuineness of people everywhere.
It is simply their way of life.

This narrative is my Thanksgiving to the People of Srinagar, who fight endless challenges, yet their indomitable spirit make them the BraveHearts of India.

I have tried to capture some special moments spent here with people – the true lifeline of this terrain.

The marvels of Kashmiri handwork which are centuries old is breathtaking. Families across generations have strived to keep this heritage alive.
I have put together a special article in the Arts & Crafts section on my experience at the Kashmir Government Arts Emporium, Srinagar which has a stunning display of this handiwork and deserve a standalone mention.

Hope you enjoy reading it.

Come Alive with Kashmiri Craftsmanship

Discover the Many shades of Dal Lake

After a long day of work, in most of our trips, we have been lucky to manage that extra time to experience the magic of Srinagar.
While, we have walked through the majestic Mughal Gardens, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh on the shoreline, it is the Dal Lake which has been the most enticing.
The lake covering an area of 18 sq km, is part of a natural wetland and is known for the House boats, Shikara rides and the century old Floating gardens that supply vegetables to Srinagar.
Colourful Shikaras that line up against the timeless beauty of Dal Lake and the mountains, keep calling out and can never be forsaken.
Every Shikara ride can be planned differently to discover life on Dal Lake. Our Shikarawala has always guided us to explore the Newness on Dal Lake and every ride has been memorable.

Shikaras at Dal Lake

DAL LAKE – Floating Homes, Shops, Farms and Market:

Our Shikara has navigated through the water channels and canals, between the Floating Homes, like the bylanes that run between our buildings. There are home like shops that sell almost everything – carpets, walnut wood carvings, dry fruits, spices, Kahwa (Kashmiri green tea).

Floating Shops on Dal Lake
Photo credit : Jahangir Mehraj

The Shikara (wooden boat) is made of Deodar wood (Himalayan cedar) which does not decompose in water. It is the mode of water transport for locals and tourists staying in House Boats. The locals staying in settlements also have their own Naav (small boat) to visit the market or to visit friends in the neighbourhood.

Naav on Dal Lake

It is amazing to see how an entire settlement thrives on the Lake.
They are engaged in farming with Floating gardens that grow vegetables, most popular being All (Lauki or Bottle Gourd ),Kashmiri Saag (collard greens) and Nadru, stem of the Lotus plant.

Floating farms and vegetables on Dal Lake
Photo credit : Jahangir Mehraj

NADRU : The Golden crop of Dal Lake

Floating Lotus farms on Dal Lake
Photo credit : Jahangir Mehraj

There are many Nadru fields or Lotus farms across Dal Lake and livelihood of thousands depend on the cultivation of Nadru which is a costly vegetable, yet in high demand round the year.
Each bundle of Nadru comprising of 12 lotus stems, often sells between Rs 200 and Rs 250 in local markets and the price goes up significantly during festival time in Kashmir.
In September 2014 deluge, Nadru fields were completely wiped out.
It is the sheer determination and hardwork of the farmers to revive the crop cultivation that has brought back Nadru supply in abundance all over again.
Nadru Yakhni ( Nadru cooked with yoghurt and blend with various spices like cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, asafoetida, cummin and fennel powder) served with Fried rice or Pulao is one the best delicacies in Kashmiri cuisine, Nadir Monji (Fried lotus stems dipped in batter) and Nadir Achaar (Pickle) are other popular eats, making Nadru, a favourite of people here.

Floating Market on Dal Lake

Photo credit : Jahangir Mehraj

Watching the Floating Market is an unforgettable experience where vegetable sellers, bakers and florists jostle in the water patch, calling out to their buyers.
The market begins after the morning prayers between 5 am to 5.15 am and comes to a close by 6.30 am. There is a big demand for special vegetables grown in Dal Lake for their high quality and superior taste and they are sold at a premium compared to local markets.
Vegetable buyers from Srinagar and other nearby places come here every morning to pick up their requirement from the farmers at Dal Lake.
Along with vegetables, Bakery items like Girda (brown bread) and Lawasa (Kashmiri Naan) also does brisk business. Locals have Tea and Girda laced with butter in the morning and Lawasa with curry for lunch.

This experience at dawn break with the reflection of the mountains on the shimmering water and the blend of colours – of vegetables, flowers and boats is such a rare sight to be seen anywhere else.

And Just a lazy drift on any evening :

Sometimes, a long, lazy drift through a stretch of greenery to see the seasonal white water lilies and lotus flowers, perched amidst cluttered spread of leaves and plants and a stopover for refreshing Kahwa and delicious Nadir Monji in one of the Floating Shops, is Completeness at the Dal Lake.

LINZ CAFÉ

As the evening comes to a close, we step into another legendary place on Residency Road, LINZ CAFÉ.
Started in 1975 by Late Sheikh Ghulam Mohammad , KAS, who was then the Chief Accounts Officer in the Finance department at the Secretariat. His higher aim in life was to contribute to the society in the best possible manner and through Linz Café, he generated employment for the unemployed.
His friends had suggested the name, LINZ , which is a beautiful city in the North of Austria. He firmly believed that “Quality of Food should not suffer as we are dealing with people’s lives through our food service.”
Over the last 45 years, this restaurant has deservingly earned a special name and a big following for authentic Kashmiri cuisine.
This place is now managed by his son, Sheikh Farooq Mohammad who has followed his father’s footprints. With a great sense of pride, he tells us that his kitchen serves close to 400 customers everyday including takeaways.
Sheikh Farooq Mohammad is extremely content with his business which employs 40 people, and indirectly impacts the livelihood of close to 5000 families.
He is very clear that “Doing good for people will make all the difference.”

Founder Sheikh Ghulam Mohammad & his son

What’s Great at Linz Café

This restaurant specialises in non-vegetarian delights. “Kashmiri Kabab and Kashmiri Pulav are the best,” says Sheikh Farooq Mohmmad.
We had a feast on small portions of Goshtaba, Chicken Rista, Mutton Yakhni and Tabbak Maaz which are the chartbusters here.
Phone : +91 1942- 473456, open all days, 12 noon to 9 pm.

Inside Linz Café

While relishing the spread in the cosy set up, we noticed a nondescript cast iron box chamber placed in the centre of the café.
On a closer look, it was one of the oldest Olymberyl wood-burning stoves which is a heating appliance. The staff could not give sufficient details, however confidently said that it works efficiently even today during chilly winters.

Olymberyl inside Linz Café

Well, Olymberyl stands testimony to a bygone era, yet with the passage of time, it stayed true to what it was made for.
And while driving back to the hotel, an inner voice whispered,
Stay focused to Life’s purpose, however long and difficult this journey may appear to be.

Live It Up at Lemon Tree, Srinagar

On reaching this heritage property, Mr. Irfan Yusuf, Manager at the Front office greets us with the same welcoming smile and unfailingly cares to check on our well being.
Lemon Tree Hotel is located at Shiv Pora, 30 minutes away from Srinagar airport.
To me, this place resembles a quaint countryside cottage.

Mr. Irfan Yusuf, Lemon Tree, Srinagar

The vibrant hospitality and warmth of the staff here is not just about good grooming and training that hotel chains in India are proud of, Being courteous comes naturally to them.
It is so refreshing to be in a place which has been thoughtfully designed with Kashmiri style architecture with wood frontages, wooden sloping roofs and stained glass windows.

The interiors are equally charming. The Walnut woodwork in the lobby, corridors and the Stairway support, is stunning. The brick finish wall of the Lobby is impressively laid with pictures of Kashmir, of tulip garden, people and craftwork.

Walking up the stairway, I always get drawn to the beautiful Kari Kalamdani (Papier Mache) and Jalakdozi embroidery work, mounted on the walls. The ceiling prides holding the bunch of Kashmiri coloured glass Light jars which are perfectly aligned. The splash of colour and light in this atrium like space is Magical.

Wall mounted Papier Mache plates

Wall mounted Jalakdozi frames

Kashmiri Light Jars & artistically designed corridor

The guest rooms have an old world charm with crewel embroidered drapery, woodwork and framed pictures of Kashmir and the comfort of modern amenities.
This place is like an artist’s expression which has been tastefully curated and the ambience keeps lingering for a long time.
One of my best moments here has been catching up on Nature’s joyfulness in the courtyard.
Under the starlit sky, I have heard the swishing sound of the tall Chinar trees,
Romancing and swaying at the unheard note of the cool, misty breeze,
And hours just melt away in this mystical spell.

Night view of Lemon Tree, Srinagar

Beautiful Kashmiri Light Jars

JAHANGIR MEHRAJ

Meet our friend, Mr. Jahangir Mehraj (jahangirmehraj@gmail.com), a Commerce Graduate with a Diploma in Journalism from Kashmir University who has always accompanied us in our visits and shared so many stories about Kashmiri people and their culture.

As he puts it across, “ The only wish of mine, we need peace, love and humanity on this earth as we don’t have too much time to live on this planet.”
And when Jahangir waves a good bye with Khuda Hafiz at Srinagar airport, he has always asked when we would be coming back again.
We never had an answer, just waved back and said soon, very soon.

I have prized the window seat most on this trip and gazed outside as the flight takes off –

As the valley slowly slips away
Clouds gather and the snow capped mountains appear
They look daunting and silent now,
Like the many dreams
That are yet to be fulfilled.