Looking back at the reams of history
Lost in the passage of time
Are stories of valour and compassion
Of Women who were fenced
With barriers and traditions
Yet they fought the odds of life
And remained determined to serve our land
Mother India will remind every generation
Of the footprints that they have left behind
Salutation to one such Legend today
A brave warrior and a great leader
Revered as Rajmata and Devi
The Queen of Malwa
MAHARANI AHILYABAI HOLKAR
MAHARANI AHILYABAI HOLKAR 31 May,1725 – 13 August,1795
Of the many trips that I have made to Kashi, I have always felt the presence of Her eternal soul that reverberates in that city.
To me, Maharani Ahilyabai is an embodiment of the Divine Dashabhuja.
How does one otherwise explain Her countless accomplishments, overcoming the strong gender barriers and beliefs that existed in the 18th century.
Her life will remain a guiding light and inspire womankind for many generations.
This is my humble tribute to MAHARANI AHILYABAI HOLKAR on the 295th year of Her Birth Anniversary.
JOURNEY OF LITTLE AHILYA TO QUEEN OF MALWA
Maharani Ahilyabai had no royal lineage and had simple upbringing.
She was born on 31st May,1725, in the village of Chaundi in Jamkhed, Ahmednagar, Maharashtra.
Her father, Mankoji Rao Shinde who was Head of the village taught her to read and write at home, while imbibing in her, the true lessons of life.
During a halt in Chaundi, on his way to Pune, Malhar Rao Holkar (from the Holkar family of Indore) was impressed by little Ahilya’s gesture of kindness of feeding the hungry and poor at the temple.
He requested Mankoji Rao for her hand in marriage for his son, Khanderao Holkar.
Barely eight year old, Ahilyabai was married to Khanderao Holkar in 1733 and thus began her journey in Malwa.
THE HOLKARS OF MALWA
Ahilyabai lost her husband at the young age of 29, who was killed in the battle of Kumbher in 1754 against the Jat Maharaja, Suraj Mal of Bharatpur State.
Malhar Rao Holkar did not allow Ahilyabai to commit Sati and decided to support and stand by her side as he was aware of her extraordinariness.
In the years ahead, Malhar Rao groomed her, so that she could understand estate matters of Indore and Malwa region.
In 1766, Malhar Rao passed away and in 1767, Ahilyabai lost her son Male Rao Holkar, few months after he had ascended the throne.
Amidst her grief, she realised her overwhelming responsibility towards her people.
With permission of the Peshwas, Ahilyabai became the ruler of Indore on 11th December,1767 with Maheshwar as her capital on the banks of holy Narmada river .
MAHESHWAR, THE ABODE OF DEVI AHILYABAI
A nice, breezy drizzle welcomed us as we arrived at Devi Ahilyabai Holkar Airport, Indore (city in the State of Madhya Pradesh).
The journey from airport to MAHESHWAR of about 95 kms did seem longer than the 2 hours of drive.
This trip was like a latent call that was getting fulfilled.
During the ancient times, MAHESHWAR was known as Mahishmati or Mahissatti. It was the twin capital of Avanti (6th Century BC), other one being Ujjain.
In 1707, after the death of Emperor Aurangzeb, the Marathas under the Peshwas took control of Malwa region.
MALHAR RAO HOLKAR was awarded with Indore and the ancient towns of Maheshwar and Omkareshwar in 1773 for his significant contribution to the Marathas’ conquest of Malwa.
DEVI AHILYABAI’S MAJESTIC STATUE AT MAHESHWAR RAJWADA
MAHESHWAR RAJWADA
As we walked through the Ahilya Dwar (arched gate), Devi Ahilyabai Holkar’s majestic statue holding the Shiva Lingam reflects her Eternal Simplicity and Divine Grace.
MAHESHWAR RAJWADA
A little ahead, through another small gateway, is the Royal palace and residence, Maheshwar Rajwada which was the centre of all her activities.
The two storeyed simple structure appeared to be made of wood built over a stone platform.
At the entrance, the two wooden statues of the elephant and the horse are symbolic of the Holkars’ dynasty reflecting Grandeur and the Military might.
Inside, the two storeyed Rajwada has pillared verandahs on all sides with a central Courtyard. The upper floors served as the residence of the Maharani and other members of the royal family. The verandahs were meant for meetings held by Maharani Ahilyabai.
Meeting place of Maharani Ahilyabai
As an administrator, people’s welfare, especially for the poor and homeless was of foremost importance to her.
She had envisaged transforming Indore from a small town to a major centre of trading activity.
Infrastructure gained tremendous momentum, under her regime, with forts, wide roads, bridges, wells and resting places for travellers which were built across the region.
Maharani Ahilyabai on her Royal Throne in her Rajwada
MAHARANI’s ROYAL ORDER
MAHARANI’S ROYAL SEAL
While governing the Holkar kingdom, Maharani Ahilyabai had dedicated the State to Lord Shiva and had declared that She would manage the affairs of the State as a custodian.
All Royal proclamations were signed by her alongwith ‘SHRI SHANKAR’.
HUZUR SHRI SHANKAR ORDER was like the masthead of Holkar rule.
Maharani Ahilyabai had gained military training and was a skilled archer. She fought her invaders fiercely armed with swords and weapons and led the Holkar army into the battlefield.
Maharani Ahilyabai’s Palanquin and swords and shields used by her soldiers
RISING ABOVE THE ORDINARY
Maharani’s Dev Puja ghar has countless Shiva Lingam and idols of various Gods and Goddesses made out of gold, silver and Ashtadhatu (an alloy made of eight metals).
ABHISHEK MANTRA
This is Devi Ahilyabai’s Abhishek Mantra which She used to chant at Shri Rajrajeshwar Shiva Temple in Maheshwar everyday.
It is believed even today that the chanting of this mantra helps to restore lost grandeur, and brings wealth and prosperity in life.
Her spiritual benevolence towards rebuilding and restoration of temples destroyed under the Moghul rule, and reconstruction of the Ghats across every holy pilgrimage place in India remains countless – from Badrinath to Omkareshwar, Dwarka to Gaya, Puri to Rameswaram and more.
You will not find her mention in most of these holy places, maybe that is how she wanted it to be, that is Her humility and greatness.
PROJECTS UNDERTAKEN BY DEVI AHILYBAI HOLKAR
Maharani Ahilyabai instilled a tradition of culture and festivals in the region and invited poets, musicians and scholars across the country to Maheshwar. She supported the community of sculptures, artists and weavers and encouraged their craftsmanship.
Clearly, her prowess across so many fronts and effectiveness as a Maharani for nearly 30 years, led to the prosperity and betterment of the region.
She is revered as Devi (Goddess) by the people of this region even today, as She personifies SHAKTI in every way.
AHILYA FORT HERITAGE HOTEL, THE ROYAL CHARM
Enchanting view of holy Narmada river from the AHILYA FORT HERITAGE HOTEL.
PRINCE RICHARD HOLKAR, descendent of Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar and son of Yeshwant Rao Holkar II, converted his home in Ahilya Wada into a Guest residence in the year 2000, today known as the Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel.
Nestled within the Ahilya Fort is a magnificent, aristocratic experience, The Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel.
Perched on the edge of a cliff, within the massive walls of the Fort, the Royal way of living comes alive.There is an old world charm in the ambience which is aesthetically designed with a blend of simplicity and elegance.
And the enchanting view of holy Narmada river is simply breathtaking from the Royal suites, courtyards and verandahs which are at different levels of the hotel.
With 19 unique rooms and the splendid Arjun Regal Tent stay, set amidst six buildings of the 18th century, the Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel is that luxe getaway which is priceless.
The Dining experience for the discerning guests is specially curated and is the highpoint of this place.
Prince Richard Holkar has trained the chefs and personally selects the menu each day drawn from recipes of the Royal kitchens of India.
In his own words, Prince Richard Holkar shares his personal favourite sprinkled with nostalgia, “My favorite recipe is also my father’s { Late HH the Maharaja YeshwantRao Holkar II }, CHICKEN SURVEDAR, today it is made with chicken, but in my father’s time, it was partridge.”
Live the AHILYA Experience :
Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel
Ahilya Wada, Maheshwar
E-mail: info@ahilyafort.com
Mobile : +91-9810040981, +91-9810186678
THE REHWA SOCIETY
As we walk down the fort towards the river front, we hear the rhythmic chatter of Tana (Warp) and Bana(Weft) which draws us to REHWA Society, the oldest and the only Maheshwari handloom store within the Fort.
Maheshwari handloom, inspired by Maharani Ahilyabai
Maharani Ahilyabai had inspired this traditional weave and her artistic instinct derived finesse from the motifs and geometric designs etched on the carvings of the fort and the holy Narmada river, which had a strong influence on her weavers.
It was in 1978, Prince Richard Holkar and his wife, Sally Holkar envisioned the revival of this ancient heritage of weaving Maheshwari in the traditional loom.
They were overwhelmed to see the plight of the weavers and committed themselves to restore the dying craft and ensure the livelihood of several weavers.
This initiative by Prince Richard Holkar and Sally Holkar laid the foundation for the REHWA SOCIETY, a Not-for-Profit organisation.
THE MAHESHWARI MAKERS AT REHWA
REHWA also offers a real time experience to see the entire weaving process.
Visit REHWA Society
Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar
Email : sales@rehwasociety.org
Phone : +918120001388
For the love of this ancient craft, read more about REHWA’s inspiring journey, the magic of the Weavers and the amazing REHWA Collection in the Arts & Crafts section of this blog.
AHILYA FORT, TEMPLES, CHHATRIS and AHILYA GHAT
As the day gets warmer, the cool breeze from the holy Narmada river has a calming effect.
We walk down further through the terraces and courtyard which is the most stunning part of the Ahilya Fort.
The mighty walls of the Fort have varying heights from approximately 12 m to 18 m, with the highest walls on the southern end of the fort, rising above 30 m from the base of Ahilya Ghat.
MIGHTY WALLS OF AHILYA FORT
AHILYESHWAR TEMPLE
Ahilyeshwar Temple, built in the memory of Devi Ahilyabai, has a Nagara style of temple architecture.
The construction of this temple was initiated by Yeshwant Rao Holkar 1 and later completed by his wife, Krishna Bai around 1830.
The inner sanctum has a Shiva Lingam and a marble statue of Devi Ahilyabai.
The temple is bound with serenity, and the timelessness can be felt here, taking one through those moments in history, the glory of Devi Ahilyabai and the eminence of The Holkars.
AHILYESHWAR TEMPLE
Facing the temple, right ahead is Vithoji Holkar’s Chhatri (built in memory of Vithoji, younger brother of Yeshwant Rao Holkar I )
This structure has carvings of majestic elephants, floral motifs, musicians and dancers.
CHHATRIS are domed structures which were built as memorials for the rulers of this region.
CHHATRI OF VITHOJI HOLKAR
DON’T MISS
The grand AHILYA GHAT, which is the pride of Madhya Pradesh was built over a period of 35 years from 1799 to 1834.
Catch the stunning view of AHILYA GHAT, the beautiful symmetry of the steps descending to the holy Narmada river which flows relentlessly and silently from time immemorial.
Ahilya Fort’s symmetrical steps on the riverfront
RELAX AT NARMADA RESORT, MAHESHWAR
NARMADA RESORT, MAHESHWAR
And from the riverfront, we head towards Narmada Resort for a late lunch which is around 7-8 minutes driveway from the Fort.
Narmada Resort in Maheshwar is managed by Madhya Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation.
From the dining hall, we could see the famous BANESHWAR SHIVALAYA, a temple located on a tiny island on holy Narmada river and there are boats that ferry a visit to the temple.
DID YOU KNOW ?
According to the Vedas, it is believed that BANESHWAR SHIVALAYA is at the centre of the Universe: the Axis, which connects the centre of the Earth and the North Polar, passes through this temple.
BANESHWAR SHIVALAYA ON HOLY NARMADA
At the Narmada Resort, there are well spread out cottages around the lawns and for those who love the calmness of the river, there are Tents placed right above the river front.
For bookings :
Phone : +91 83499 94784
Tents on the riverfront at Narmada Resort
Driving away from Maheshwar, I was carrying back the blessing of Devi Ahilyabai with a rare Bel patra from her Rajwada.
This tree was planted by Devi Ahilyabai and her devotion for Lord Shiva reflects in the creation of these rare Bel Patra or Vilva leaves
A rare Bel patra from the tree planted by Maharani Ahilyabai in her Rajwada
THE HOLKAR GALLERY, INDORE
THE HOLKAR GALLERY
The Holkar Gallery in Indore set up in June, 2017 is managed by Khasgi Devi Ahilyabai Holkar Charities Trust.
It is the only museum dedicated to The Holkar dynasty depicting the history of different rulers with display of objects, warfare tools and rare collection of pictures from the 18th century.
Mr. Rajendra Joshi, Manager at Khasgi Trust, points out one of the distinct contributions of The Holkars, “It was Tukoji Rao Holkar II in 1869, who had offered a loan of a crore of rupees to the British Government for the construction of the Khandwa- Indore, Railway line. He also started the Municipality of Indore in the same year. His reign was exceptional and brought about remarkable progress in the state.”
The Holkars were the finest rulers of the region. Under their regime, they had established strong social reforms like the Hindu Widow Remarriage Act and the Indore Child Marriage Prevention Act.
Town planning, setting up of the Commerce Department and the first textile mill were some of the other initiatives that were undertaken to develop trade and business and create employment for thousands.
The Holkars were truly the Architects of Modern India. And their story lives on.
When the evening sky lights up Ahilya Fort and the holy Narmada river, the glow is Divine.
Ahilyabai’s journey from a village to Palace is very inspiring.
A true administrator, warfare for poor and created Indore as a business centre 300 years back for locals. Very few know her so many qualities 🙏🙏🙏
Beautiful narration of the Great Maharani Ahilya bai Holkar. I had done my Graduation and MBA from Devi Ahilya Vishwa Vidaylaya Indore
Beautiful write up anu! I ve relived Maheshwar.
Beautiful description of Ahilyabai’s life.
Excellent Description
A lovely informative read Anusuya! !
Simply loved it!